BANITA BEHERA
IGRMS,BHOPAL
Kapdaganda-
a token of love
Embroidered with
colourful motifs and designs on both sides, Kapdaganda is a
prestigious shawl of Dongria Kondh tribe, a primitive sub section of
Kondh tribe who
inhabit the forest land along the slopes of the great Niyamgiri hill ranges of
Rayagada and Kalahandi districts of Odisha. They also identify themselves as Jharnia
because they live in close conjunction with a perennial hill stream.
Woven with excellent craftsmanship, this
shawl is specifically prepared by the spinsters of Dhangidibasa (female dormitory) during leisure hours.
It is used by Dongria Kondhs of all ages irrespective of gender. Kapdaganda is
gifted by the Dongria girls to their beloved ones as a token of love. It is
also presented by them to their brother and father as a symbol of affection to
strengthen consanguinal relations. Aesthetically added designs and motifs in
the shawl unfold social beliefs and religious practices.
Socio-cultural significance
In general Kapdaganda is gifted as a
token of love to the beloved ones which also includes family members.
Kapdaganda plays vital role in mate selection. Kedu/Meriah
festival of Dongria provides an opportunity to the youths for mate selection.
Throwing of the shawl by the boy over a girl shows his willingness to marry the
girl. In return the girl shows her consent by accepting or rejecting the shawl.
Colours used in the shawl carry significance.
Traditional designs and motifs
The off-white
coarse cloth used as raw material for Kapdaganda is procured from the
Domb, a local schedule caste community by bartering harvested crops. The
designs are embroidered on the cloth by a needle using threads.
A Dongria maiden doing embroidery
“Watta”
–The three straight lines running at the bottom of the weave-designs represents
the imaginary boundary wall of their habitation. It symbolizes social security
and also marks as a symbol of protection from the evil forces.
“Karlikanna” the
axe shape design symbolizes the blade of an axe which indicates the aggressiveness,
revenge, energy, power, territorial fights and proves that they are the real
protectors of their “Dongar”
(mountain).
“Kuddilinga”-
the triangular design symbolizes the abode of their household deity worshiped
by them in all important rituals and ceremonial occasions.
These traditional designs are also
manifested in other material culture like- bangle (Paja), religious observation-Kudilinga, Jhaker penu and Dharani
penu.
A close view of embroidery work
Techniques used
The white thread is procured the local Domb community. The threads are dyed according to the colour requirement. They
use turmeric, bean leaves and wild seeds to colour yellow, green and red
respectively. To prevent the colour fading they boil the banana flower in water
and dip the coloured threads in it. To check the result they hold and press the
thread in the arm and dry it on a bamboo pole. This technique is now almost
extinct and is replaced by the ready-made colour threads.
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